Starting from seed - questions!


#1

Hey friends,
im a biiiit late to the party but my current grow is coming to an end in a few weeks, and im finally able to upgrade my closet with that sweet system.

Things i want to discuss / ask / know:

  • I saw alot of you guys start from clone. I want to start from seed. I figured jiffy pads are not an options since the soil in it could plug the nozzels. So i thought rockwool is a good alternative? What would you do if you start from seed? I only ever started in soil. Im a total beginner to hydro and there are hella lot of options… vermicultie, perlit, expanded clay, glasswool rockwool. Asking the DWC pros here :slight_smile: Is there a possibility to start in a veg greenhouse and translant afterwards? I dont know if thats smart. :stuck_out_tongue:

  • Just to make things clear: Long breaks, and longer spraytime in the early stages (like 3/900) and shorter breaks and intervals once the roots are showing up in the air (like 1/360) is what i was reading right now. Is that the ballpark? Im sorry if thats already stated somewhere, we might need a wiki or somekind of structured resource soon. Did someone already do a youtube series with general values?

  • Nutes. I already asked Wanjun. Im going for the GH line, since organic stuff could plug the nozzels, also no medium to buffer anything at all. Plus 1/4 of the initial values seem to be alright for starters. Do you guys use tap or destilled water?

  • pH/ec: 5.8-6.2 is what william texier says in his book. But that accounts for hydro systems. What is your experience? EC should be gradually extended from 0.2 up to 2.6, but i think thats pretty much dependend on the plant. less is more i think.

  • The STRAIN: Oh well im thinking alot about that lately. So i wanted to make a comparison grow with two autoflowers from the same breeder (kind of like greenhouse seeds youtube series). On the other hand i like to have a massive tree in there with 8 to 10 weeks of training before flowering. What did you do? just go 2 weeks veg and flower just to test the system? I have a variety of stuff to chose from…

Im thankful for every input you guys have!
Cheers,
Carlifex


#2

Finally! Haha.

About the seedling, there is no perfect solution in the market. I am thinking to custom make something.

But according to the test result, the rockwool is the best. No breakdown particles. Excellent ability to capture moisture’s and keep them. Only thing is just remember to cover it to prevent green algae grow, and of course wear gloves when you cut it. Oh, make sure soak it with ph of 5-6 solution initially.

The second best option was the dried mash from squash. Strange, right? Haha. Others in the test are clay balls, jiffy blocks etc.

I am thinking a magnetically charged palleted seed suspended in the air. And engineers crossed it out without even testing. Haha. It was deemed too impractical.

About the spray, there are different patterns to go by. Common conclusion is don’t over do it. Now, there are lots of other factors affecting the result, such as angle, timing, duration.

Our lab likes the nutrient droplets to float in the chamber and softly attach to the roots. So they point down to the reservoir and give it 1-3 (updated: 3-5) second to do the job. It also avoid disturbing roots with pressured flow. But it is only one of the many ways to do it.

Please let us know what you discover in the process.


#3

thats interesting… O_O

Well i think whats practiable is an ongoing thread here in the forum with updates like in the common growers forum. you get an instant feedback and the environment here is more than enough to breakdown the necessary information.

Thanks for the answer!!


#4

I started seeds in the aerokit with root riots and it worked fine took longer as I was already growing a plant so my spray intervals were not tuned for seeds if I was going to start seeds in it again without anything else in the system I’d try like 3/30 till I see roots and up it from there I’d also figured with rooting cuttings it took me longer as well so next time I will do longer shorter intervals till roots form them change it.i have been using organic in system but I filter with cheese cloth first no problems yet. I like to keep my ph around 6 and my root chamber at 65 degrees right now I’m running 2/600 for a clone with a good root mass


#5

Thank you for that input!


#6

For seeds i use small chopped rockwool cubes (10mm x 10mm x 10mm). Fill a netpot with cubes after presoaking in RO water phd to 5.5, You can germinate the seed first or just place it into the cubes, works either way.. Place the netpot in a suitably size black plantpot or cover the outside of the netpot with black and white poly / panda film to prevent any light and dry air getting to the sides. You want the roots to grow down and outwards to the sides of the netpot so they are sitting there ready to go when you put it in the aero unit. In the early stages you should handwater from the top to keep the rockwool moist but not wet. The mist should be kept to a low level to encourage the plant to send out aero roots Dont overmist or youll saturate the rockwool. The basic idea is the rockwool cubes provide the plant with a secure source of water/nutes while it generates enough aero roots to support itself on mist…If you rely solely on mist from the get go, youll have to overmist to keep the plant upright and, apart from the stress, the excessive moisture level will create hydro structured roots not aero. This is not good because hydro roots grow much slower than aero roots and they have to be converted to aero roots once you have enough. Youll lose twice as much growing time. When you have enough aero root growth to sustain the plant on mist alone you can let the rockwool dry out. It doesnt work as well with standard rockwool cubes as the small cubes.


#7

That seems to be kind of the opposite of what cannaguy was saying :smiley:
So you say i shloudnt oversaturate in the firstplace to encourage aeroroot development, while cannaguy says i should oversaturate to the point where the plant could potentially sustain from the longer misting intervals.


#8

The early stages are the trickiest, on the one hand you need a lower mist level to grow enough aeroponic rootmass to use the mist, On the other, you need to keep the plant upright to grow any type of roots :wink: .
Overmisting will keep the plant upright at the expense of the aeroponic root growth,.The smooth, solid hydro roots grow much slower so you`ll be waiting longer for them to grow before they can be converted into aero roots by reducing the mist… Apart from the stress induced from chopping and changing the mist, the time lost in the transitions can add up so its quicker to grow the right type of roots right from the start.
The water and nutes in the rockwool keep the plant happy while it explores the mist beyond the netpot. No stress as theres no drastic mist changes,and no structural root transition from hydro to aero.


#9

What works for one may not work for another!foggy seems to know a lot more then I do about aeroponics as I’m learning myself but I’m just going off of my own observations my only real experience with aeroponics is cloners and based off how cloners work I figured more is better when rooting then cut back as roots form


#10

Hi Cannaguy420
The rockwool method is specifically for seeds, clones are much easier to deal with :wink: Im just passing on things ive found that give the best results in the fastest time. If you try both methods you can decide which one is best for you. Overmisting is safer but slower, when you dial everything back more than you thought possible and experience the difference in growth you wont look back. Its not easy to make that leap if youre used to growing in hydro because it goes against everything youve learned. You`ll discover aero has more in common with soil growing than with hydro :wink: