Nutrient Sensor Accuracy Issue?


#1

Nutrient sensor is reading 450-ish% all the time and generating errors. There’s currently about 1.25" of water in the bottom of the reservoir. It was off to begin with so I was adding more as per the instructions. The inlet for the sensor is setup as indicated, and the wiring appears to be correct as well.
It also seems to fluctuate between 450-ish and 0%. Is the pinout is wrong? Or is the sensor DOA?


#2

Seems a connection issue. What is the pin number it connects to?

Please send photos of 1. the portion in the chamber 2. the connector to the harness.


#3

Here you go:



Also woke up to this?


#4

Pretty good wire organization. :slight_smile:

It seems that the connection is ok. White/Brown wire was connected.

Please do another test: if you bypass the extension cord (without it), what is the result?


#5

Can’t see the video


#6

Thanks. I’ll try that out when I get back home. I’ve used ATmel/Arduino stuff before and know how temperamental it can be with signal noise, but I was hoping it was something more obvious.

This is the noise I woke up to this morning after I left it running the two day test:

Do you think that’s air trapped in there? I had a hard time pressuring it, the connections on the
temperature controller were leaking a bunch, I had to tighten the plastic connectors to get it to stop. Right now it hovers around 90ish psi.


#7

You are perfect DIY audience for AeroKit. :slight_smile: Yes. the video didn’t work.

Yes, if the nutrient level reading is not correct, the pump will enter protection mode to prevent sucking in air in case of water level is too low.

I double it is the sensor issue in this case. The data is analog (voltage 0.5-0.45vdc, corresponding to 0-50cm water level).

The connectors you mentioned is it the “Y” connector? Since you get the pressure working, are you using auto mode? What is the nutrient level reading?

If we can’t isolate the issue, I will send out the replacement (Harness B, extension cord, and level sensor) tomorrow.


#8

Hi wanjun, the sensor is still not reading properly without the extension on it.

The leaky connection was at the nutrient heating unit. It was the two connections that the tubes terminate onto. Not the t-connector in the inside of the root chamber.

The video link keeps getting messed up by the editor take the spaces out of this for it to work:

Editor Updated: video link


#9

The wire harness is the main suspect. It was done manually by the manufacturer. Several users reported various issues.

I will send all three components to you today. Sorry for the trouble. DM me to confirm shipping address.


#10

Your temp control is making strange noise. :slight_smile: Glad it is working now. Bubbles need to be purged out the system.

You could use the drain tube (clear tube in the pressure box) and connected manual drain valve, with pump manually controlled to drain the nutrient back to root chamber. By doing this you can purge air out.

In your case, unless the nutrient level sensing data is correctly read, auto pump mode will not suck in nutrient to maintain the pressure.

Yes, tight connection is important with AeroKit.


#11

I got the box of replacement parts, thanks!
The sensor was indeed bad, so that’s been resolved.
But… I still seem to have some leaks in the system.
I double checked all the hoses in the pressure box. I found a couple potential culprits in the root box and used zipties on the hose to try to tighten them down. Next, I used the drain hose and the manual pump controls to purge air from the system again. But every once in awhile I saw a teeny little buch of airbubbles float by.
Are there any other tips for hunting down those leaks, securing the hoses or maintenance options I need to use to help sort it out?
Is there a way to ensure there isn’t any air stuck in the nutrient temperature controller?
What about the additional options in the app for purging the system?


#12

Hi, there! Good, so you can see the liquid level now!

To isolate the air issue, try the following:

  1. make sure water level is higher than the intake ball to make sure it is submerged.
  2. If it doesn’t help,
    Try to disconnect temperature control power supply. We are going to by pass it to test out.

Try to disconnect the T tube (near the ball) from the temperature control tube (outside of the chamber). And submerge the T tube in the water. Doing so we bypass the temperature control. And try to manually flush the air and see if it works.

If it does work, we need to check the temperature control tube circulation.

Let me know.